Electronicbeats // City Reports

Nightlife

Wed, 24 Jan 2007 12:03:36 GMT

If you are a beer drinker then you will be happy in Prague. They have a good choice of inexpensive beers and a lot of pubs! That may be why the city is often very full in the warmer months with (usually English) stag and hen parties. If you want something more cool and directional though then you may have a struggle on your hands. You have to know where to go as there are not so many of these places just lining the streets. It’s worth making the trip out to clubs like Mecca, Rad Ost or Roxy club where they bring in good DJs from around the world to play. Meanwhile K.U bar, Swank or Ocean Drive offer good, cheap cocktails for those that don’t like guzzling beer!

SWANK
Tucked away down a charming alley is this cool, minimalist bar. Swank is decorated in icy shades of white and acquamarine with seating coming in the form of coral-coloured barstools. At night there can be a good crowd in here, downing a lot of cocktails and whiskey.
Havelská 499/27, Prague 1, Tel. +420 777 329 917

BOMBAY COCKTAIL BAR
Bombay was packed to the rafters when we came in, full of some sort of stag party who were shouting the song lyrics to 80’s pop classics. Minus this hellish crowd, Bombay may stand a chance as a decent bar. It’s wood-pannelled with a lot of seating and the cocktails tasted superb – especially the mojitos.
Dlouhá13, Tel. +420 222 324 040

MECCA
The only club in Prague that can lay claim to be truly stylish and well designed as well as being up-to-date with its music policy. A large chrome entrance room welcomes you as you go in, then the main room is well lit with a sunken dancefloor that gets rocked by a top-quality sound system. There is a small basement club for those who want a different music option and upstairs is a VIP area. Trevor Nelson from London was DJing R’n’B to a wildly enthusiastic crowd when we were there. For those who like to dance and drink somewhere with style and flavour, then this is your main port of call.
U Pruhonu 3, Tel. +420 283 870 522, www.mecca.cz

ROXY
The Roxy club is one of Prague’s longest standing clubs, and it has seen a lot of good times going on inside and has also been important in bringing new sounds from international DJs to the people here in the Czech republic. It is definitely a bit of a dump – there are no frills and the whole place has a student union feel to it, but what the hell. On good nights (Sunday morning after-parties are rumoured to be rocking) this club pulls it off well.
Dlouhá 33, Josefov, Tel. +420 224 826 296, www.roxy.cz

OCEAN DRIVE
They have some sort of angel theme going on in here with fluffy angel wings hanging from the ceiling. La Dolce Vita was showing on a TV screen and a white baby grand piano was being used by people to prop up their drinks. This is a popular haunt for the younger crowd of Prague.
V Kolkovnê 7, Tel. +420 224 819 089

DUPLEX
Split on two floors, Duplex seems to be stuck in a bit of a time warp. They have cheesy go-go dancers on podiums dressed in appalling tracksuits or school-girl uniforms who just smile while guys take pictures up their skirts. The music was supposedly cutting edge electronic when we there on Thursday night, but it was housey techno that often descended into cheese. There were way too many men in the club (for a straight night) and nobody seemed to be really comfortable. The views from the top floor terrace are pretty great but you may prefer to stay out there looking at Wenceslas Square rather than go back inside.
Václavské námestí 21, Tel. +420 224 232 319, www.duplexduplex.cz

RADOST FX
Apparently Radost do book some pretty decent DJs and there is a good gay night here once a month – but they badly need to invest in a new sound-system and the whole place needs a serious refurbishment.
Belehradská 120, Vinohrady, Tel. +420 603 181 500, www.radostfx.cz

K.U. BAR
This is where the young clubbers of Prague come to down a cheap but tasty cocktail before heading out into the night. K.U is always full although the music policy is hardly challenging – it’s rather cheesy euro-house. There were also rather too many men in the bar (where are all the women in this city??) who were rather eager to scope out any females entering the bar.
Rytirska 13, Prague 1

Hotels

Wed, 24 Jan 2007 11:56:00 GMT

Prague is one of Europe’s most popular city-break destinations. Having seen the masses of tourists strolling through the city we think it must be actually number one. The high demand for places to stay has been answered and there is a place to rest your head for every gusto. If it’s a state-of-the-art designhotel like the Yasmin or a lushusly luxurious tavern like the Carlo IV make sure you book well in advance.

THREE CROWNS HOTEL
The owners of affordable Three Crowns Hotel in Prague‘s Zizkov neighbourhood (20 min. walking distance to city centre) invited Modernista and architect Pantelis Larcou to give the 1930s building they were adding to their hotel a boutique Modernist feel. The architect used wood panelling and flooring as well as glass partitions to create a contemporary background with art deco steel pipe furniture. The result is stylish and sleek without being cold. It’s a shame that the resources did not stretch to the standard rooms as well because the difference is sizeable.
Cimburkova 28, Prague 3, Tel. + 420 222781112, www.three-crowns-hotel-prague.com

MAXIMILIAN
Famed architect Eva Jiricna has worked her magic in Prague once more. After the Orangery in the Prague Castle and the Hotel Josef she transformed an ordinary three-star hotel in a 1920’s building into an affordable designer bolthole. The main element of the Maximilian’s reception is a backlit yellow onyx wall, with two desks in walnut and black lacquer in the foreground. This small gesture to the ambience of the ‚20‘s, continues throughout two guest salons, the drawing room (with a complementary self-service honesty bar) and the library. The furniture in the 70 rooms also reflects the period between Art Deco and Modernism, there are Eileen Gray chairs from La Maison de Verre by Pierre Chareau, in Paris, which was also a source of inspiration. The walls are decorated with Graphics by Czech artists of the era exhibited throughout the hotel, lend by the Museum of Decorative Arts in Prague. Overall though the atmosphere is contemporary yet comfortable. The Maximilian caters indulgence with the first and only Floating Centre in the Czech Republic and the Sabai Thai massage studio for heavenly relaxation.
Haštalská 14, Prague 1, Tel. +420 225 303 118, www.maximilianhotel.com

HOTEL JOSEF
Situated in one of the loveliest areas of Prague in the old Jewish quarter (“Josefov”) within walking distance to the Old Town Square and all the chic restaurants you find Hotel Josef to be a minimalist haven. Designer Eva Jiricna created two buildings one called Orange, the other Pink, around a peaceful courtyard in a soothing decoration scheme. In order to have a more fluent transition between the new facade and old houses surrounding it, lightweight perforated sunshades were put up that create an almost Mediterranean feel. The lobby with a backlit smoked glass reception desk and bar, limestone floors and cream coloured leather armchairs wraps around an impressive highly crafted, art-deco inspired, stainless steel staircase. Unfortunately due to bad lighting it’s lacking a bit of an atmosphere. The sleek 109 rooms with floor to ceiling windows have the most comfy mattresses ever. In short, here are the reasons you must love the Josef for: floor heating and Aveda products in the bathroom, free high speed internet and a great breakfast.
Rybná 20, Prague 1, Tel. +420 221 700 111, www.designhotels.com

HOTEL OLD TOWN SQUARE
Nestled in an UNESCO‘s World Heritage-listed 16th-century town-house (try saying that three times in a row) right bang in the middle of Old Town Square you find this little jewel of a hotel. No worries, double glazing eliminates the outside noise- most of it anyway. The rooms are contemporary, surprisingly large, with a black, white and grey colour palette. All bathrooms and toilets have heating with self-regulation under the floor and are furnished with Phillipe Starck sanitary objects. We liked the service (24-hour room service, massages in the room etc.) However considering this is a five star place there is no gym or bar in the hotel to snap a drink or a coffee. Capacities are small so book well in advance.
Staromestske nam. 19/20, Prague 1, Tel. +420 606 821 628

ANDEL’S HOTEL
Andel’s is situated west of the Vltava river in the up-and-coming Smíchov area about 2km away from the centre. Brit Architects Jestico/ Whiles designed the hotel and we did like the glass façade with windows from top to bottom and the minimalist stone-grey lobby with touches of red. The décor of the rooms is not overly creative and has a bit of an Ikea feel but it features modern amenities, including high-speed internet connection (20 Euro charge per day!) CD and DVD player. The gym is well equipped with an under lit Plexiglas floor and there is a steam room and a sauna (also extra charge). The breakfast buffet with a range from the usual food types to more exotic options like Japanese miso soup and other foreign delicacies means it´s worth leaving your bed before 10.30.
Stroupežnického 21, Prague 5, Tel. + 420 296 889 688, www.andelshotel.com

K+K HOTEL CENTRAL
Tucked away behind a stunning art-nouveau façade from 1905 you find the Boutique Hotel Central situated close to the Powder Tower. The place has been completely reconstructed in 2004 and the result is the most impressive symbiosis of the old and the new we’ve seen in a while. The rooms are decked out in a contemporary style with touches of Art Deco, Modernism and Klimt. We liked the brilliant two floored glass construction serving as a conference centre and breakfast room for it fits snugly into a beautifully restored ballroom. There is also a small spa with sauna and gym to restore in art-nouveau custom.
Hybernská 10, Prague 1, Tel. +420-2250 22 000, www.kkhotels.com

HOTEL CARLO IV.
One of the most beautiful neo-classicist buildings hosts the majestic five-star hotel Carlo IV., a truly luxurious affair with liveried doorman and a palmfilled atrium. Designer Maurizio Papiri created an interior of lush elegance with muted gold, warm red and rich brown being the colours du jour. We love the Cigar Bar for its cool decor with red chesterfield sofas and quirky coffeetables. The Carlo IV. also boasts the best spa in town.
Senovazne namesti 13, Prague 1, Tel. +39 049 8287787

HOTEL DOMUS BALHASAR
Just few steps from the Charles Bridge, west of the Vltava river, in the heart of the oldest and most picturesque part of Prague there is the Domus Balthasar Hotel. Originally, the house was a part of an archbishop‘s palace built in the middle ages. On a medieval souterrain a classic baroque house was built in 1721. Walking up the narrow vaulted staircase (no elevator-come on, it’s a listed building) you’ll be surprised by the generous size of the rooms. The décor is simple yet elegant in neutral colours featuring original elements like wooden beamed ceilings. The stylish bathrooms have a colonial feel with white tiles and dark wood furniture, with a bath and shower. There is a lovely view from almost all of the eight rooms and in the evening the bar opens to the public and swings into action as Balthasar Wine Bar.
Mostecká 5, Prague 1, Tel. +420 257 199 499, www.domus-balthasar.cz

HOTEL YASMIN
This Design Hotel in Prague can truly live up to it’s name. A team of Czech creatives, including artists from Studio Najbrt and designers from local firm Mimolit, have turned a neoclassical building near Prague’s Wenceslas Square into a super-modern, 60’s-inspired hotel. Already the lobby greets you with a mixture of quirky spacy decor, a bit Barbarella but good. The bedrooms are lit by Moooi tube lights and, in the bathrooms, multiple mirrors reflect pitch black tiles in a space punctuated by Starck fittings –hot! Politickych Veznu 12/913, Prague 1, Tel. +420 234 100, www.hotel-yasmin.cz

Cafes

Wed, 24 Jan 2007 11:40:43 GMT

Lounging in Cafes is a popular past time in Prague. Of course there needs to be a lot to accommodate all the tourists that are trekking around the city 24-7, but there are also some spots that are off the beaten track and are delightful to wile away a morning or afternoon in. Many have newspapers and internet connections available. Cafes are mainly either grand old affairs such as Kavarna Imperial or Café Savoy serving tea, coffee and cakes or are more relaxed with a varied menu and a younger clientele hanging out - Bakeshop Praha, Café Indigo or Bohemia Bagel Express are prime examples.

CAFÉ CAFÉ
A grand café that will take you back in time. The high ceilings are painted and gilded and everything in the café from the chairs to the brass fixtures to the cutlery seems to twinkle and shine. Waiters in classic black and white run around serving you yummy treats and coffee.
Vitezná 5, Prague 1, Tel. +420 257 311 562, www.ambi.cz

RIVE-GAUCHE
For a taste of Paris in the centre of Prague you can’t find a better place. Unsurprisi-ngly this patisserie is always busy. The main front room is gorgeously tiled all the way up to the high ceilings. Food such as quiches, croissants, cheese and chocolate cakes are exquisitely presented and freshly made every day.
U luzického semináre 23, Prague 1, Tel. +420 257 532 434

CAFÉ CAFÉ
A chic hang out for those who like the fashion scene. Cafe Café has large TV screens on which Fashion TV runs virtually non-stop! Needless to say the duys are not too interested, but the girls are. And the guys come to watch the girls watching the TV, so everyone’s happy. Good coffee and light bites served all day long.
Rytirská 10, Prague 1, Tel.+420 224 210 597, www.cafe-café.cz

CHEZ MARCEL
The infamous French café culture is celebrated here in this cosy little place. French newspapers and magazines are available and French music wafts from the radio – indeed just being in here makes you want to start furiously smoking one Gitane after another whilst knocking back red wine and talking Voltaire etc. Well, almost. We settled for espressos and discussions of Brangelina – who says intellectualism is dead?
Americká 20, Prague 2, Tel. +420 222 513 340, www.chezmarcel.cz

CAFÉ ANTIK
A small café, very Prague of yesteryear looking – framed pictures crowd the walls and antiques are dotted about. They just serve coffee, tea and some pastries. A pleasant place for a brief pit-stop.
Dlouhá 22, Prague 1, Tel. +420 222 322 288, www.hotelantik.cz

CAFÉ INDIGO
This laid-back café exudes a sort of bohemian intellectual feeling. It doubles up as a gallery space and has some interesting art and sculpture around – including a giant stone cow! They serve a good mix of hearty food, including the full works for breakfast plus fusion food.
Platnerska 11, Prague 1, Tel. +420 222 519 559, www.indigospace.cz

ANTIQUE COFFEEHOUSE
This bohemian old style café is superbly located directly beneath the Prague castle – try and get here early for your morning coffee and breakfast and you really get a sense of what this city used to be like hundreds of years ago. Plus you have to come early to nab one of the very comfy rocking chairs! Prices are reasonable.
Thunovská 19, Prague 1, Tel. +420 605 111 222

DYNAMO
A relaxed and chilled café/restaurant where the soft green walls and wooden seating will chill out even the most frazzled tourist! With good jazzy music and a decent lunch menu on offer at reasonable prices it’s a Dynamic café for sure.
Pstrossova 220/29, Prague 1, Tel. +420 224 932 020

Restaurants

Wed, 24 Jan 2007 11:23:38 GMT

Watch out for your waistlines because Prague has some great restaurants to offer! There is every cuisine available here, in fact you will be hard pushed to find traditional Czech dishes of bread dumplings as most places offer Fusion food – a mixture of Asian, French and Italian. There is also a strong American influence in Prague (for better or worst), so steaks and burgers are easy to find! You can easily eat out for reasonable prices or if you want to push the boat out then its lots of fun to get dressed up and go to super-chic eateries such as Pravda, L’Angolo or Kampa Park where the good service, food and location design can keep you locked in all evening.

COWBOYS
The Kampa Group’s latest venture is an upmarket steakhouse where you can comfortably sit back in stylish cowhide boothes while gazing up at the original vaulted ceilings. The place boasts the biggest and sexiest steaks in town but also non-meat eaters can enjoy the extensive menu with creative salads, veggie-burgers and pastas. Situated in Malá Strana this labyrinthine 17th century cellar also holds a cocktail bar where it get’ s very crowded especially on weekends. Here the Wild West is still in fashion with cowboy dancers and flair bartenders. We do love the heated rooftop terrace!
Nerudova 40 , Prague 1, Tel. +420 296 826 105, www.kampagroup.com

NOSTRESS
Nostress is shop, gallery, restaurant and cafe in one. The shop sells small decorative objects, flowers and lifestyle products. Low leather chairs, warm earthy colours and Marrocan pendant lights in the restaurant compliment the clever downlighting, completing the sophisticated and loungy feel. The French-Asian fusion menu is delicieux: go for the seared ahi tuna seasoned with freshly grounded pepper served with potatos and leeks or the divine grilled duck breast with plumms and potatoes. Loved it!
Dusni 10, Prague 1, Tel.: +420 222 317 004, www.nostress.cz

L’ANGOLO
This elegant, upmarket Italian „restaurant lounge“ sits in a spacious corner building at a pretty little square near the Old Town square. Diners are seduced upon entering the restaurant by the sight of glass vitrines filled with tasty-looking pasta and vegetable dishes, and some deserts. Apart from refined Italian meat and fish dishes, L‘Angolo also has a wood-fired pizza oven adjacent to the cellar seating area. The stylish décor is quite classical in black and white with modern clever lighting and there is a sleek lounge in the basement for a drink or two.
Dlouhá 7, Prague 1, Tel. +420 224 82 93 55

ARZENAL
Arzenal is an unusual combo of a quirky Thai restaurant and glass design shop where you can get an excellent brunch/lunch buffet daily for just 170Kč. A special gourmet section of the menu is available for those who do not mind shelling out a little more for shellfish and other such luxuries.
Valentinská 11, Prague 1, Tel +420 224 81 40 99, www.arzenal.cz

BAROCK
Who would have thought that the most overpriced and yet average tasting sushi would be found in Prague of all places. Barock is a rather pretentious wannabee hot-spot with bright red walls that boast pictures of pouting ex supermodels. How uncool!
Parízská 22-24, Prague 1, Tel. +420 222, www.barockrestaurant.cz

LA SCÈNE
According to owner Zoran Kovačevič, la Scène is not a restaurant, bar and champagne club at all, but a theater. His staff is supposed to make diners forget about where they are for three ours. Culinary that is, we guess. Because the French cuisine prepared by Michelin-starred gourmet chef Georges-André Rognard is simply on another level. The menu is as sleek as the decor: Just four cold starters, four hot starters and eight main courses are listed. And all of them taste divine. La Scene consists of a lounge-like wine bar, a beautiful dining area and a mellow champagne club. The main dining room has elevated platforms, separated by curtainlike, semi-transparent veils for some intimacy. And finally there is a cool champagne bar (with the biggest selection of champagne in Prague) in the basement to sip some bubbly in style.
U Milosrdných 6, Tel. +420 222 31 26 77, www.lascene.cz

PRAVDA
Pravda sits in one of the most beautiful buildings in Prague (and be assured the city is full of them). Built by architects Richard Klenka and Frantisek Weyer in 1906 it’s a show of sculptured beams, mosaics, imitation marble and richly gilded stucco. The interior of the restaurant lives up to the outside splendour with white neo-gothic panelled walls and crystal chandeliers contrasting with a minimal furnishing. Check out the awe-inspiring basement for some drama it´s a blend of dark hues with mirrored tables and a lit floor that strikes the perfect balance between sleek dining and loungey cool. The international menu is quite refined.
Parízská 17, Prague 1, Tel. +420 222 326 203, www.pravdarestaurant.cz

NOODLES AT HOTEL YASMIN
Über-stylish and fun eatery Noodles at the Hotel Yasmin serves noodles (who would have thought?) from all over the world. Don’t miss it!
Politickych veznu 12/913 , Prague 1 , Tel. +420 234 100 100

Shopping

Wed, 24 Jan 2007 11:13:52 GMT

If you want to try out some Czech designers then there are some cool stores that house the best of the new young breed. The area to walk around is the Old Town where you will find Boheme, Klara Nademlynskà and DNB amongst others. For more standard fashion you can hit Wenceslas Square and the surrounding streets where you can find major stores such as H&M, Mango, Zara, adidas and Converse. If you want designer stores then you can also step a well-heeled foot inside Dior, Hermès and Louis Vuitton on
Parizska street. There are also some nice homeware and lifestyle shops where you can splurge on tables, candles and curtains. Nonetheless you will be hard pushed to break the bank here as the choice of shops is not that extensive, so be happy that your credit cards can snooze inside your wallet a little longer.

KLARA NADEMLYNSKA
Klara is one of Czech’s most famous designers and if you come in here it’s easy to see why. The store is cosy, with wooden floors and warm paint on the walls – which is actually much more on-trend than much of the bare very minimal look that most of Prague’s fashion stores are still going for. Klara has great collaborations with Nike going on, where she helped design shoes with them. Then there are her own designs whose characteristic features are a clean style line, high-quality materials and elegantly seductive clothes with cut finishing and unusual combinations. The company expanded a few years ago and now also include a Klara Sport and Klara Jeans range which are more funky and relaxed.
Dlouha 3, Prague 1, Tel.+420 224 818 769, www.klaranademlynska.cz, www.czechfashion.cz

DNB
Another minimalist boutique from Czech designers DNB – smooth simple lines dominate their look and they favour a lot of black, white and grey colours with muted flashes of rose or purple every now and then appearing. The fabrics are pure and luxurious – worth checking out if you have a smart engagement to get ready for!
Náprstkova 4, Prague 1, Tel.+420 222 221 342, www.denisanova.cz

YAMA BOARD SHOP
Attention all board-fanatics! This is your shop. They have all the good skateboard brands here including Eastpack, emerica, Vans, Stüssy and Zoo York, and for surfboarders they have the surf brands like Mambo. There are baggy jeans, t shirts, hoodies, caps, wristbands, belts for every shape and size – so if you like your jeans really baggy, then you can easily fit two of you in what they have here. Of course they sell boards and the wheels, screws and all that other techy stuff to go with them. Boys are downstairs and girls upstairs – the girls section is alarmingly pink though – what’s up with that?!
V Jaimé 2, Prague 1, Tel.+420 296 226 277

TIMOURE ET GROUP
Known as TEG, this brand is the combined forces of Alexandra Pavalová and Ivana Safránková, and they have the young, stylish and affordable corner of the Czech market cornered. Their designs are very cool, with a great character to them, always on-trend but never too much. They have been going since 1992 and are well respected in Prague and opened their second store a couple of years ago. V Kolkovne 6, Prague 1, Tel.+420 224 240 737, www.timoure.cz

BOHEME
Boheme has been producing two collections of women’s wear since 1991. Their speciality and trademark is knitwear – whether super fine or seriously chunky, their items will last you for years. Come here for sweaters, turtlenecks, cardigans and skirts. Its also a good stop for picking up basics like white t-shirts and vests. Sewn shirts and trousers as well as leather and suede-wear complete the collections, plus you can great accessories – woolly hats and scarves in winter are a must!
Dusní 8, Prague 1, Tel.+420 224 813 840 , www.boheme.cz

THE NORTH FACE
It can get very cold in Prague in autumn and winter so the arrival of this gorgeous new North Face shop is very welcome. The North Face is probably the premier label for fashionable outdoor clothing for extreme weather conditions – you can wear a big warm coat and still look very cool. Split on two floors they cater for both men and women and have a fantastic selection of items – you will be hard pressed to choose between the fleeces, body-warmers and various jackets and coats, not to mention the trousers, gloves and hats. The good news is the prices are very reasonable as they are able to price items down compared to their American market and its just good to have such a large selection of clothes available as usually you can only find a few North Face pieces here and there in ski shops.
Jungmannova 30, Prague 1, Tel. + 420 224 946 893

CONVERSE SHOP
Seeing as it’s not so easy to find Converse in Prague (adidas, Puma and Nike being omni-present in sports shops) it’s cool that there is a Converse store, purely dedicated to those perfect examples of classic sports footwear. It’s like choosing a flavour of ice cream in here – do you want white, pink, green, blue, red, brown or perhaps multi-coloured? Because Converse come in all the colours of the rainbow and cater for thoise with even the most psychedelic taste in colours. Whether you want low tops or high tops, this is the place to come for fresh looking kicks.
V Jaimé 4, Prague 1, Tel.+420 222 233 202

PARÍZSKÁ
This modern boutique is full of some of the trendiest designer labels around today, and is one of only a handful of shops in Prague than has such a good selection. As you walk in there is an impressive collection of Fred Perry, especially for the men this is a godsend, as there aren’t enough male-focused stores in the city. Further down the store the ladies will find Marc Jacobs, including his highly-desirable shoes, plus Ferre, Belstaff, Drykorn and Brunello Cucinelli cashmere. It goes without saying that the cool crowd and upwardly mobile of Prague will be found in here.
Parízská 5, Prague 1, Tel. + 420 222 314 315

LE PATIO LIFESTYLE
At this lifestyle and home-furnishings store you can really buy a little taste of the exotic for your house. They have bought a lot of their stock out in India and are selling ti here for really rather reasonable prices. Beautiful carved tables, elephant statues, buddhas and even rocking horse-elephants for children are all available. There was also a beautiful cast-iron bed and tons of unusually shaped candles, boxes and pillows. If interior design is your thing or you want something to spruce up a room, then come here for inspiration.
Národni 22, Prague 1, Tel.+420 224 934 402, www.patium.com

Praha

Wed, 24 Jan 2007 10:54:03 GMT

What Prague has in abundance is old world charm. It is a stunningly beautiful medieval city rich with grandly preserved baroque, art nouveau and cubist buildings. Walking along the statue-lined Charles Bridge in the sunshine with the vast twinkling Vltava river below and Prague Castle ahead, cannot fail to give even the most well-traveled quite a buzz. The Old Town Square with the Astronomical Clock is a must-see as is the St.Vitus Cathedral with its dizzyingly high gothic spires. There are countless galleries to wander around here, as well as the larger more established ones such as the huge Centre for Modern & Contemporary Art. Whatever you decide to see, be prepared to get up early when there aren’t so many other tourists around, as the midday period is seriously crowded with picture-snapping backpackers virtually all year round.

Old Town Square Dating back to the late 12th century, the Old Town Square started life as the central marketplace for Prague. Being the heart of the town it has seen many significant events both fantastic and tragic. Over the next few centuries there were many beautiful buildings of Romanesque, Baroque or Gothic origin erected with fascinating house signs. Some of the most prominent examples include the Kinský Palace, the House of the Stone Bell and the Štorch House. The Church of Our Lady Before Tyn dominates one side of the Old Town Square. This powerful looking, Gothic church with a baroque interior can be seen from all over Prague. Gleaming in the corner of the square is the St. Nicholas Church, designed by Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer, that was completed in 1735. This elaborate baroque edifice is adorned with vibrant frescos and a massive crown shaped chandelier diven by the Russian tsar Nicholas II. The Old Town Hall Tower is one of the most striking buildings in Prague, built in 1338. Inside is a staircase where visitors can climb to the top, for a minimal fee, to enjoy wonderful views over the Square and all of the Old Town. The tower holds the beautiful Astronomical Clock which was created in 1490. Watching the parade of Jesus and his apostles marching out mechanically every hour by the hour is not really worth the wait in touristy gathering crowd. Be prepared generally for masses of tourists that leave even Venice going pale in vain. The nicest time to enjoy the beauty of Old Town Square is really early in the morning when the first light of the day hits the magnificent pastel-coloured buildings.

DANCING HOUSE
Located alongside the River Vltava, Dancing House‘s daring, curvy outlines led its architects, Vlado Milunc and the American Frank O Gehry, to initially name it the “Astaire & Rogers Building”, after the legendary dance duo. Built between 1992-1996, Dancing House is an amazingly modern contrast to Prague‘s historic attractions.
Rasinovo nabrezi 80, New Town, Prague 2

PRAGUE CASTLE
Prague Castle is the largest medieval castle complex in Europe and is definitely worth a visit and there is so much to see you can easily spend a whole day. This huge vast-walled compound has a tumultuous 1100-year history. Several renovations followed by destructive wars and fires, along with differing political forces were due to the outcome of the truly unique architectural complex. The Castle, seat of Czech kings throughout the centuries, enfolds many buildings, including Prague‘s most recognisable landmark the Gothic Saint Vitus Cathedral several palaces, a monastery, museums & galleries, viewing towers, St. George‘s Basilica and the enchanting Golden Lane.Prague Castle was established in the 9th century. A Romanesque palace was erected during the 12th century by Prince Sobeslav I and in the 14th century, under the reign of Charles IV, it was rebuilt to Gothic style. Charles IV also started building the St Vitus Cathedral in 1344 with it’s lofty 100m main tower and stunning 10,5m diameter rose window but it wasn’t until 600 years later that it was finished. As a result of a big fire in 1541, Prague Castle underwent further works during the 16th century. The Spanish Hall was added during the reign of Rudolf II and final alterations were made by Empress Maria Theresa, under the direction of the celebrated architect M. Pacassi. Today, Prague Castle is the seat of the President of the Czech Republic, and serves as the historical and political centre of both city and state.

PETRIN HILL & OBSERVATION TOWER
A small imitation of the Eiffel Tower, Petrin Tower was built in 1891 for the Jubilee Exhibition. It is 60m tall, which doesn‘t sound particularly high until you remember that it has the additional height of Petrin Hill, on which it stands.The view is magnificent and well worth the 299 step climb to reach the viewing platform. On a clear day you can see the highest peak in the Czech Republic, Snezka, which is 150km away from the tower.
Mala Strana, Prague 5

CHARLES BRIDGE
Fight your way through the masses to the rail of the bridge for a fairytale-like view on the river that will make Smetana’s famous tunes from the Moldau buzz in your head. 13th century Charles Bridge is the main pedestrian route linking the Old Town with Mala Strana, and then onto Prague Castle itself. King Charles IV‘s favourite architect and builder, Peter Parler, built the present day Charles Bridge. The initial idea was to build a functional construction for knight tournaments, and for many years the only decoration on the bridge was a simple crucifix. Later, the Catholic desire for ornamentation resulted in 30 statues being put up between 1600 and 1800. There are towers at both ends of the bridge - the Old Town Bridge Tower on the Old Town side and the Lesser Town Bridge Towers on the Mala Strana side.

MODERNISTA
We like Modernista! When decorators Janek Jaros and his wife, Deirdre MacBean, couldn’t find the original furniture they were looking for they decided to make it on their own. They became specialist dealer of furniture and accessories from the first half of the 20th century, covering every style from Czech Cubism, Functionalism, Bauhaus to Art Deco and Vintage Steel. Modernista reissued original pieces as well as authorised reproductions of works by leading Czech architects and the best works from the golden age of Czech design, the years 1910 to 1938. When the Czech lands were transformed from a small, though industrially advanced, part of the Austro-Hungarian empire to a free republic unique talents emerged. For example Czech-born architect and designer Adolf Loos, who stirred up Vienna and Prague with his stark façades; the Czech Cubists, who daringly applied Picasso and Braque‘s principles to three dimensional design; or pioneer of mass production Jindrich Halabala, who strove with ingeniously bent wood and tubular steel to create furnishings that were functional, affordable and well-designed. Modernista brings the work of these people back to life.
Betlémské námestí 169/5a, Prague 1, Tel, + 420 602 305 633, www.modernista.cz

DOX
Due to open in summer 2007, Dox is the new Centre for Contemporary Art, architecture and design in Prague. It will present works of living artists with 8-10 exhibitions a year to examine critical issues that cross the boundaries between different disciplines such as photography, sculpture, painting, new media, film and design. There will also be an international bookstore, a sculptural garden a café and a design shop.
Vojtesska 8, Prague 1, Tel. +420 224 930 927, www.doxprague.cz

WENCESLAS SQUARE
Originally used as the main Prague horse market the 750m long and 60m wide boulevard that makes up Wenceslas Square was laid out over 600 years ago during the reign of Charles IV. Over the years it has been a regular parade ground for all kinds of organisations and political parties. From anti-communist uprisings to winning the World Ice Hockey Championships, this is where Czech‘s come to protest and to celebrate. Wenceslas Square can comfortably hold up to 400,000 people! At the top of Wenceslas Square sits the statue of good King Wenceslas (Vaclav), murdered over a thousand years ago by his brother who is now a Czech national hero. The impressive building at the end of the square is the National Museum. Today Wenceslas Square is one of the main shopping zones boasting big chain outlets.

LANGHANS GALERIE
The Galerie Langhans is not only a perfect symbiosis of the old and the new in its architecture but also in it’s changing exhibitions. Featuring modern and classical photography partly out of the archive of illustrious photographer Jan Langhans the gallery is always worth a stop.
Vodickova 37, Prague 1, Tel. +420 222 929 333, www.langhansgalerie.cz

CULTURE

Tue, 26 Sep 2006 09:45:06 GMT

Budapest is truly a culture-vulture´s paradise. That is not surprising considering the city´s turbulent history. There is a lot to take in so if you are only here for a few days choose wisely! What you must do is walk across the Chain Bridge, explore the Buda Castle which houses the National Gallery and go inside St.Stephen´s Basilica which, somewhat bizarrely, has on display the mummified right hand of St.Stephen! And if you want to really get to grips with Hungarys dark past, then visit The House of Terror museum, if you think you´re hard enough.

HEROES SQUARE Built in 1896 to celebrate the millennium of the Hungarian conquest of the Carparthian Basin, Heroes? Square is a vast and grandiose symbol of 19th-century Hungarian nationalism. The square is flanked on either side by the Museum of Fine Arts and the Palace of Art VI. H_SÖK TERE

HOUSE OF TERROR The House of Terror Museum is a monument to the memory of those held captive, tortured and killed in this building. Visualizing the bleak decades cruel repression, the museum is the former headquarters for the secret police of both the Nazi and Communist governments. The building's awning has the word TERROR cut out of it, and when the sun projects through these letters, it symbolizes the terror which was projected onto the Hungarian people for fifty years. The modern, stylish, hightech exhibit is designed for Hungarians, but the English audio guide gives tourists the same powerful experience. ANDRÁSSY ÚT 60

SZÉCHENYI CHAIN BRIDGE Budapest's most famous bridge was built between 1842 and 1849 and was the first link between Buda and Pest. It started the economic revival that would lead to the golden century and it was one of the factors that made the provincial towns of Pest and Buda into a fast-growing metropolitan. The 375 meters long and 16 meters wide bridge, an engineering feat, was destroyed during World War II, and re-opened in 1949. In 1989 people demonstrated on the chain bridge for freedom and independence. Since then, the bridge has become a symbol of Hungarian liberty.

MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS In a renovated building that dates back to 1906 you'll find an outstanding collection of foreign art including thousands of pieces by the Old Masters of European schools (seven paintings by El Greco) as well as Egyptian and Graeco-Roman artefacts and 19th-20th century paintings, graphics and sculptures. DÓZSA GYÖRGY ÚT 41, TEL. +36 (1) 469-7100

HUNGARIAN STATE OPERA HOUSE Hungarians are a cultured lot who generally have not yet give way to the western ideal that going to a classical recital is a 'fairly extravagant' thing to do. Budapesters love their Opera House which was designed and built in Renaissance style with its inaugural concert in 1884. It is worth a visit not only for a production but also to see the superbly rich interior. Compared to other cities tickets are not reserved for a selected few but start already at 5 - per piece. ANDRÁSSY U. 22., TEL. +36 (1) 1530170

BUDA CASTLE The fortification system and palace of Hungarian kings, built in the 13th century following the Mongol invasion, was destroyed and rebuilt many times. Constructed on medieval foundations, the Renaissance structures were destroyed by the Turks. Later, the Baroque Palace burned down and its reconstructed buildings were damaged during the War of Independence (1848). In the late 19th century the reconstruction and enlargement of the Palace was completed in neo-Baroque style. The Castle with its 203 rooms now houses several museums, among them the Budapest Historical Museum and the National Gallery.

HOUSE OF HUNGARIAN PHOTOGRAPHERS The house of Hungarian Photographers features excellent national, international, historical and contemporaryphotography exhibitions. NAGYMEZÕ UTCA 20, TEL. +36 (1) 473-2666

MARGARET ISLAND An oasis in the middle of the city! Spread across 2.5 km, there are shaded walkways, beautiful gardens and the massive Palatinus thermal baths to keep you entertained. In the middle of the Danube River, Margaret Island has always belonged to one religious order or another. Only when the Turks took over the city, they made the place which was then called Island of rabbits - 'nomen est omen' - a harem! Now the official dodgy business is banned leaving a great escape from the stresses of city life.

GELLÉRT The Gellért is Budapest's most beautiful Thermal Bath with springs that have been used by the Turks since the 13th century. This Art Nouveau palace, built in 1918 with its splendid mosaics, marble columns and statues makes you soak like royalty. There are three outside pools, an out-door wave-bath (which was a worldwide first) as well as different thermal pools and steam bathes. Even though the Gellert is quite a touristic affair because of it's many medical and therapeutical therapies it is still Budapest's most important spa. 11 KELENHEGYI ÚT

SZÉNCHENYI From the outside the place looks like a neo- Baroque castle. However with its twelve indoor and three outdoor pools it is the largest bath extant in Europe. Another superlative: the Szénchenyi contains the deepest (970 m) and hottest (75°C ) thermal spring in the city. It was the first one to be discovered in Pest and the reason for the opening of the Szénchenyi bath in 1913. It is open all year around. XIV, Á LLATKERTI KÖRUT 11

CAFÉS

Tue, 26 Sep 2006 09:35:55 GMT

There is a rich cultural history of coffee houses in Budapest and you should make the most of it while you are here, because they are so unlike the coffee clones of Europe. The cafes here pride themselves on their uniqueness, quirks, rich history and heritage. You make think you’re just stopping by for your morning coffee but you are actually taking part in a long tradition! So order that double espresso and get reading your newspapers or engaging in some serious conversation on the arts – now you are truly acting like a local.

GERBEAUD Gerbeaud has been serving coffee and cakes since 1858, yet they are clearly moving with the times as they now have wireless LAN available in their conference rooms. Gerbeaud is lavishly decorated and is probably the grandest coffee house in the city. It was decorated as you see it in 1910 in fine woods, marble and bronze. The ceilings are decorated in the style of Louis XIV and the whole place was renovated in the 1990's by its new German owner. They are world famous for their cakes, coffee and general overall atmosphere - surely the best place to come for coffee morning, noon or night. VÖRÖSMARTY TÉR 7, TEL. +36 1 429 9000

VISTA CAFÉ AND RESTAURANT Vista is two locations in one. The restaurant is a tranquil and stylish affair that offers twists on traditional Hungarian cuisine. Our favourite though is the Café that provides Internet access complete with microphones and webcams. The Café is popular with tourists as it's very centrally located, so the place gets a bit crowded in the afternoons and evenings, so read a book and sip your coffee while you wait for a computer to become free! VI. PAULAY EDE U. 7, TEL. 268 0888, 267 8603

CAFE VIAN Sitauted on the beautiful Liszt Ferenc square, Cafe Vian is a new addition to the Budapest cafe scene and is already quite at home, thank you very much. The owners are French, which you can tell once you step inside; the places oozes that certain elegant je ne sais quais that only the French have. As we all know, the French can drink black coffee with the best of them, and true to form, they do great coffee here. LISZT FERENC TER, TEL. +36 1 342 8991

MÜVÉSZ KÁVÉHÁZ Stopping off here for a coffee is like stepping into another place in time. It's sumptuous decor and elaborate wallpaper and chandeliers turn coffee time into something else entirely. Starbucks eat your heart out. They also offer a fabulous selection of wickedly rich cakes, so this is a perfect place for a suger rush before pounding the streets of Budapest. ANDRASSY UT 29., TEL. +36 1 352 13 37

CENTRAL KÁVÉHÁZ Over 100 years ago the Café Central was one of the intellectual hotspots of Budapest. That building was destroyed but now, like a phoenix from the flames, the coffee house is back and has been restored to be a perfect replica of how it was before. Although there is a superb restaurant here as well, this place is best known as a coffeehouse or a breakfast spot, as they offer the best flavors of coffee in the area. V. KÁROLYI MIHÁLY U. 9, TEL. +36 1 2662110

GERLÓCZY KÁVÉHÁZ Steven Spielberg used the Gerloczy Cafe in one of the Parisian scenes in his feature film 'Munich' in 2005. As well as excellent coffee you can have a full course meal here. They makes great creamy soupsmade with either shellfish, meat, cheese or asparagus and offer traditional dishes such as meat or fish steaks but with a modern twist,. Deserts such as the creme brulee are also really delicious, and in the summer are best eaten on the outside terrace. V. KER. GERLÓCZY U. 1, TEL. +36 1 2350953

RUSZWURM CONFECTIONERY This small 19th century cake shop has a truly amazing selection of cakes that all look like mini works of art. There is a small seating area where you can enjoy your cake with a cup of coffee or hot chocolate. If you have time then read about their history, which dates back to 1827 when they were confectioners to royalty. SZENTHÁROMSÁG U. 7., T. +36 1 3755-284

ECKEMANN - THE GOETHE INSTITUTE CAFE They have wireless LAN inside the cafe of the famous Goethe Institute, so it's full of laptopians typing away. It's a bright and airy space perfect for relaxing and unwinding as it's normally rather peaceful without too many tourists. Their mugs of hot chocolate are enormous and really tasty and they offer light snacks too. ANDRASSY U. 24, T. +36 1 374 4076

ASTORIA If you want to escape the crowds then nipping into the beautifuol Astoria Hotel would be a good idea, as inside you can seek refuge in their old-fashioned Astoria cafe. This is a great spot to read the newspapers and wile away a few hours sipping some seriously strong and excellent coffee! KOSSUTH LAJOS UTCA 19/21, TEL. +36 1 3173411

THE TEA ÚTJA TEAHÁZ If you are getting a little bit tired of all the coffee houses and would like something a little bit different for your next pit stop, then this Chinese tea house is charming. They make really excellent tea here, many of which have excellent medicinal properties, so if you are feeling weak from all that shopping then come here to top up energy levels! The decor is also really authentic and a very cool and fat Buddha statue watches over all the tea-drinking guests. HENZELMANN IMRE UTCA 3, TEL. +36 4860819

RESTAURANTS

Tue, 26 Sep 2006 09:35:05 GMT

In the last 10 years, the dining-out experience in Budapest has vastly improved. Once upon a time the food on offer used to be limited, unhealthy (cooking with lard anyone?) and over-priced. Those days are long gone though. It is now possible to choose from a wide range of cuisines, from French to Asian, Italian to Chinese, Moroccan to Indian. Stylish new eateries like Cyrano, Mocca and Tom George all prove this point superbly and they are reasonably priced!

LEROY This happening place boasts an interior with quirky colour combinations of pink, green and brown. You can choose between comfy indoor chairs and sofas or opt for the spacious terrace outside, with an excellent view of the Basilica. The food is best described as fusion meaning cous-cous salad with spicy chicken pieces and yogurt dressing or the soy chicken spit with Japanese cucumber salad and jasmine rice. But also a wide selection of steaks and pasta dishes are served is being served here to a hip crowd. V, SAS U. 11, TEL. +36 (1) 2665248

TOM GEORGE Close to St. Stephen's Basilica Tom-George Restaurant and Bar is one of a number of new joints that have sprung up in the area, that is already a favourite to the beau monde. Although it bears some retro touches with wall-panellings and geometrical patterns, the setting is quite contemporary, cosily lit by the lamps sitting next to each table. The menu is international from Hungarian goulash to Sushi. OKTÓBER 6. UTCA 8, TEL. +36 (1) 2663525

CAFE KÖR This chic but cosy Bistro-style restaurant with wrought-iron tables, vaulted ceilings, and crisp white tablecloths serves great Hungarian food. Grilled ewe cheese salad is a favourite with regulars- a mostly Hungarian crowd. SAS UTCA 17, TEL. +36 (1) 3110053

SPOON CAFE & LOUNGE This three-decker boat, is docked at the leg of the Chain Bridge floating on the Danube River. Choose a spot in one of the two restaurants, the spacious panoramic terrace or in the Oriental Bar underwater and start with Goose liver terrine with fig mellowed in Tokaj wine or the marinated mussels and crayfish with cilantro vegetables. Then sample the New Zealand saddle of lamb with tomato flavoured artichoke that does make your eyes water by the sight only. The Spoons interior is contemporary and comfortable but not super impressive. Who needs the most stylish interior if you can enjoy a truly spectacular view on the Buda Castle anyway? V. VIGADÓ TÉR 3-AS KIKÖTÖ, TEL. +36 (1) 411 0934

MANNA LOUNGE Manna calls itself an 'euthentic lounge', whatever that means we have no clue. This swanky Bar and Restaurant sits above the 'rear' entrance to the tunnel that runs under the Buda castle. The low ceiling and big glass fronts emphasize the colonial feel with dark wood floors and furniture. Low lighting and inviting lounges make Manna a perfect chill out place before hitting nightlife. I, PALOTA ÚT 17, TEL. +36 (0620) 999-9188

MENZA Coming from Berlin 70's inspired wallpaper makes us cringe a bit from complete overdose. However the overall sleek and simple look of Menza with its six metre high ceilings makes us forgive. This eatery has a canteen feel about it - a high-class that is - in a vibrant, fun atmosphere. The food is modern Hungarian and the chef makes an effort to make the plates fit the stylish surroundings: small pieces of art on your plate, but under the surface the dishes are quite honest and straightforward. LISZT FERENC TÉR 2, TEL. +36 (1) 413 1482

MOCCA Near the Basilica hotspot Cafe and Restaurant Mocca is an ethno-eclectic affair with lot's of Moroccan lamps and African art too stylishly decorated to be overloaded. The folkloristic, fusion cuisine offers dishes such as cold banana cream soup with Martini and litchi or grilled goose liver on fresh cake and chamomile flower sauce. But also less exotic plates like hungarian goulash soup with noodles make dining at Mocca a magical experience. SAS UTCA 4, TEL. +36 (0)1 3280081

CYRANO This elegant eatery in downtown Pest leans much on French and Asian fusion cuisine for inspiration. The décor with wrought-iron chairs and green-marble floors boasts the chandelier used in the Depardieu version of Cyrano de Bergerac. Rather dark it comes alive at night, thanks to pleasantly coloured lighting. Peaches filled with Roquefort cream with Aszu wine sauce is a tasty overture and the warm chocolate cake with liquid chocolate centre accompanied by vanilla ice cream and cherries asks for standing ovations. Be warned about a 15% service charge that is included in the bill. V. KRISTÓF TÉR 7, TEL. +36 (1) 266 3096

FAUSTO Fausto's is undoubtedly one of the best restaurants in town although the kitsch Venetian décor isn't exactly our favourite. Expensive but unpretentious Faustos dishes are to rave about. Excellent fresh seafood is an unmistakable choice on the menu. Opt for the mussels and clam soup as a warm starter and continue with black ravioli in cod filled with aubergine and basil sauce, one of the home made pasta specialties of the house. To stick to the luring seafood on the menu, you may choose saffron-flavored risotto with grilled king prawn and sum up with a tasty wine of the extensive wine-list. Yum! II. DOHÁNY U. 5, TEL. +36 (0)1 322 7806

CLUBS

Tue, 26 Sep 2006 09:33:56 GMT

The club and bar scene is quite unique in that these spaces are often cafes-bars-gallerys-dancefloors and youth/art centres all in one. The clubs and music scene offer an eclectic mix of nights, from jazz to breakbeat to house. Overall it would be fair to say that the music policy in many of the clubs is a little mainstream and not so up with the european trends for minimal, techno or electro (they still love drum'n'bass and progressive house here!) However, the kids here are dying to know more and the clubs are changing slowly - this is an emerging scene thats got a lot of potential!

A38 A38 consider themselves to be a cultural centre and is thus eclectic in terms of musical styles which range from electronica to classical music. You could attend a literature or film festival there. The venue itself is a refurbished Ukrainian ship that is now moored by the Petofi Bridge. The new owners turned it into A38, comprising a large club, bar and a restaurant, that offers great views over the water and music at least twice a week when becoming the 'Jazztaurant'. Be there early though as they close at 11pm! THE BUDA SIDE OG PETÖFI BRIDGE, TEL.
+36 1 4643946

TRAFÓ This industrial turn-of-the-century building houses another cultural centre. Trafo includes a bar and club in the basement while there are dance performances and plays on offer in the performing hall upstairs and there's graphic art that you can enjoy in the gallery. Trafó also includes a coffeehouse where you can participate in discussions following events in the performance hall or simply enjoy your drink reading a paper or magazine. On the whole however it's a great amalgamation of cultural educationand night time amusement as you could see a performance and go downstairs afterwards to dance the night away! LILIOM U. 41., TEL: +36 1 4562058

BAHNHOF MUSIC CLUB Being one of the better clubs in Budapest Bahnhof means it's usually quite crowded on the weekends. It has two dance floors, one of which offers mostly mainstream sounds while on the other you will hear the more housey, experimental stuff. As speakers of German (the clue is in the name) may already have realised, the main theme of the club is train station memorabilia. Love it or leave it, because dancing here with the local crowd until 4am is the bomb. VÁCI UTCA 1, TEL: +36 1 3024751

CLUB COLOSSEUM If you are an ambitious dancer then you should definitively go having a 70s experience in this late night clubbing venue. Located in Budapest's 15th district, Colosseum is a place for the hip and sporty crowd. The music policy here is straight techno and house with DJs spinning the wheels until 5. So you could still go there after hanging out in one of the bars. To get here you should seriously consider hopping on bus 77 and 177 (or a Taxi) as district 15 is in one of the marginal areas. KÉSMÁRK UTCA 32, TEL. +36 1 209 213 845

SÜSS FEL NAP Süss Fel Nap is a hangout for the unpretentious. Just having a good time and some drinks (they are inexpensive here) is what this place is all about. If you're ok with some R'n'B and Hip Hop then you should head to here to the northern end of the centrally located 5th district and prepare to have a night out with a relaxed local crowd of Budapest students. Not so much the hip spot nonetheless strongly recommended. HONVÉD UTCA 40, TEL. +36 1 302 3799

DOKK BACKSTAGE The Dokk club located in a refurbished warehouse on an island in the Danube is a place for the well off. Being a restaurant during the week it transforms into a club with life performances as soon as on Friday. As it is only a short walk from the HÉV stop you can get there by train and save your money on the drinks! HAJÓGYÁRI SZIGET 122., TEL. +36 1 4571023

SHOPPING

Tue, 26 Sep 2006 08:10:25 GMT

Shopping in Budapest has come a long way. It will still be some time before you can hammer your card here the way you can in other cities, but nevertheless, credit where it’s due. There are a number of cool boutiques that are springing up here, and that’s great to see. Young Hungarian designers are also really interesting and are ones to look out for!

VASS Vass is a traditional Budapest shoe store and it's well worth coming here for classic shoes that will last you for years and years. Craftsmanship is still affordable in Hungary, so you may as well make the most of it while it is still here. There are fantastic shoes available in store or they can be made to order, like in the good old days. HARIS KÖZ 2, TEL. +36 1 3182375

TISZA Under the Communist regime, Tisza were the only shoe brand that Hungarians could buy. Nowadays of course they can buy whatever brands they like, yet perhaps miraculously, Tisza has survived and is still popular. That's probably because they have revitalised their designs and are now making stylish retro shoes and clothes - all made in Hungary of course! SZENTTMIHÁLYI U. 131, TEL. +36 1 4104425

RETROCK DELUXE Ready to rock? Retrock are run by a young and dynamic group of Budapest hipsters who are determined to change the Hungarian notion of fashion, as well as the perception of Hungarian fashion from abroad. Theirs is an eclectic mix of modern and vintage for men and women which is both Margielaesque and Westwood-inspired. They have the most exciting young Hungarian designers here including Use Unused, Nanushka, Tamara Barnoff and Je Suis Belle. The store itself is cool and kitsch, and anyway, you should be hanging out here if you want to meet the arty, quirky, cool people of Budapest. They always know where the best parties are! HENSZLMANN IMRE UTCA 1

SZAMOS MARCIPÁN CUKRASZDA This delightful colourful confectionary store is a must for all of those with a sweet tooth. A long-established business, this company is renowned for its marzipan flowers, cakes and sweets. If you want to buy someone a birthday cake, then there could be no better place in Budapest to come - they can even ship it to where it needs to go to! PÁRISI UTCA 3, TEL. +36 1 3173643

RETROCK ORIGINAL This is the sister store to Retrock, the only difference is everything is vintage! This is the premiere second-hand store of Budpest, you can really find some gems here, without having to spend hours rummaging through tat! The clothes here are truly exceptional; any fashionista worth their salt would not miss this - because they can bring clothes home that no-one else will have (the holy grail of fashion!) BP. V. KER. FERENCZY ISTVAN. U. 28, TEL. +36 1 3181007

POSTER URBAN OUTFIT One of the most megacool stores of Budapest! Dudes and dudettes, do not miss this! They have a very respectable selection of designers form all around the world, from Helsinki, Bangkok, Vienna and, of course, Budapest. For vintage 80's lovers there is a huge section that you can freak out and scavenge around in for hours, as we know you like to. From shoes to t-shirts to coats to dresses, they got it all. And also new collections from cool sports brands like Nike. MÚZEUM KRT 7, TEL. +36 1 2660673.

FORMA A fabulous contemporary design store with items sourced from all over Europe. The designs can be quite unusual and are generally rather 60's influenced. We are sure the young and hip of Budapest are coming here to fill their apartments. Choose from lamps, tables, chairs, clocks and accessories. The staff are very friendly and helpful, so if you need to ask questions don't be shy. V.FERENCIEK TERE 4, TEL. +36 2665053

KATTI ZOOB To witness the best in modern Hungarian fashion design, be sure to come here. Katti Zoob is a very well known and respected designer, and they are about to open a big showroom on the floor above her shop. Her clothes are famous for their tailoring and sumptuous fabrics and for the bespoke, couture service. SZENT ISTVÁN KORUT 17, TEL. +36 1 3121865

AKT RECORDS A tiny little record store that is nonetheless beloved to fans of minimal techno. So for those Minus records, come here. They also have electronica, electro, drum'n'bass, breakbeat, hip-hop, funk and reggae, although be aware their choice and stocks are hardly extensive. If you don't want to splash out they have a pretty good second-hand vinyl section. MÚZEUM KÖRÚT 7, TEL. +36 1 2663080

ECSERI FLEA MARKET If you love rooting around in other people's junk and clothes, in the hope your search will pay off in the form of Faberge eggs or vintage YSL, (hey, one can dream), then you gotta come here. This long-established gigantic traditional flea market has been running since the middle of the nineteenth century and has been held in various locations, slightly out from the city centre. Since the 1960's it has not even been on Ecseri út although it is still known by that name. Perhaps confusingly, it is also sometimes known as 'Tangó'. Open: Monday to Friday: 8.0 a.m.-4.0 p.m., Saturday: 6.0 a.m.-3.0 p.m., Sunday: 8.0 a.m.- 1.0 p.m. 1194 NAGYKÖRÖSI ÚT 15

FOLKART CENTRUM If you want to pick up some good quality souvenirs from your stay in Budapest then come here, as there are some lovely handy-crafts made by local Hungarian craftspeople. There is a lot of choice, from embroidery, ceramics, wood and bone carvings, textiles and more. VÁCI UTCA 58., TEL. +36 1 3185840

VAM DESIGN Attention all Interior design fans! Venture downstairs into this absolute gem of an underground design store, you won't be disappointed. It houses soft furnishings as well as great furniture from a wide range of periods as well as the modern classics such as Arne Jacobsen, Marcel Breuer, Charles & Ray Eames, Eero Saarinen and more. KIRÁLY UTCA 26, TEL. +36 1 2679540

SUITCASE LIFESTYLE STORE This is one of the few concept stores in Budapest and if you are style-conscious male you should definitely drop by. They have a great books section with many essential tome son photography, art and fashion. Clothes are more in the casual end with brands like Carhartt prominent. They even do men's cosmetics here. So boys, when you've run out of your blusher, you know where to come. ZRÍNYI UTCA 12, TEL. +36 1 3022315

VÁSÁRCSARNOK (CENTRAL SHOPPING MARKET) If you want to stock up on some good quality, local fresh produce then you shouldn't miss this long-established food and flower market. It's located on the Pest end of the Szabadság (Freedom) Bridge. The main floor has vegetables, fruits, pick szalami and meat. Look our for Kolbász, a homemade style sausage and Hungarian goose liver (libamáj) paté. The mezzanine level houses folk-art booths and snack bars. in the basement level there are fishmongers, pickles, a grocery store and a shop selling colonial produce. VÁMHÁZ KRT. 1-3, OPEN: MON 06:00-17:00, TUE-FRI 06:00-18:00, SAT 06:00-14:00

BUDAPEST

Mon, 25 Sep 2006 14:54:23 GMT

Budapest is truly one of Europe´s most beautiful and charming capital cities. It is split in two by the magnificent River Danube; Pest is the busy city and lies low on eastern side while Buda is hilly and green and where the ancient city and Castle Hill lies. Budapest has a had a tumultuous and often tragic past; it has been fiercely fought over time and time again and a number of different occupations have left their mark. This makes for a city incredibly rich in differnt architectural influences, from the Ottoman occupation, when many Turkish baths were built, to the Habsburg domination which brought the ancient castle district, to the Soviet era which, in typical Communist style, brought tower blocks.

Since Hungary freed itself from the grip of Communism, it is amazing to see how fast Budapest has flourished. It has an art and culture scene to be reckoned with, with the Opera House, National Theatre and many art galleries entertaining and informing all year round. Shopping is now something that can be seriously enjoyed, whether it´s the antique and flea markets to lose yourself in for hours on end or the fabulously chic designer boutiques - that you probably shouldn´t not spend too many hours in! They are continually renovating old buildings to their former glory, bringing back the shine to the city from grand old coffee houses to theatres to ancient Turkish baths. In fact Budapest is often called The City of Spas because of it is richly endowed with natural springs of thermal waters possessing various medicinal properties, and it is these that supply the city´s many thermal baths. Actually, all those baths could be why they´re such fragrant people! Of course the nightlife scene is also something to get excited about. There is an eclectic mix of bars and clubs here that play all sorts of music – the scenes here are not as defined and established like the rest of Europe but that makes it all the more interesting. Go out to a club here and see the enthusiasm in the people dancing and you will get the bug too!

Enjoy this wonderful city.

Pictures by Lisa Schibel and Lars Borges
Text by Liz McGrath and Sandra Liermann

CULTURE

Wed, 14 Jun 2006 14:32:18 GMT

Barcelona is an architecture and design lover´s paradise. From the giant gothic churches that are over 900 years old, to the surreal work of gaudi, to the modern arts hotel on the beach with Frank O. Gehrys fish sculpture, to Jean Nouvel's torre agba, to the staggering size of the noucamp stadium. There are eye-catching and remarkable buildings everywhere. For art lovers ther is a huge choice, from macba to dali to picasso. One thing is for sure, you will never be short of cultural things to do or see.

LA SAGRADA FAMILIA Barcelona's unique Expiatory Temple of the Sacred Family is Spain's most popular tourist attraction and without a doubt, Antoni Gaudí's masterpiece; an impressive work of architectural genius to which he dedicated twelve years of his life. The church was initially a neo-Gothic project designed by the architect Francesc de Paula del Villar. Gaudí was commissioned to continue the work in 1891, and replaced the existing project with a much more ambitious one which resulted in the enormous present-day structure. Gaudí died in 1926 when he was run over by a tram - mistaken for a beggar he was left to die - and is now buried in Sagrada's crypt. All the plans for his unfinished masterpiece were lost in a fire in the Spanish Civil War, and since 1940 the work has been in the hands of architects Francesc Quintana, Puig Boada and Lluís Gari. The basilica is privately owned, and all building funds are donated by the public. Building is still going on today with no precise date of closure. Climb up one of the towers for a spectacular view over the city. MALLORCA 401, EIXAMPLE, TEL. +34 93 2073 031

TIBIDABO This mountain (512 metres in altitude) overlooks the city in the Serra de Collserola neighbourhood. El Tibidabo is surrounded by an enormous green belt that acts as the lungs of Barcelona. There is an emblematic amusement park the oldest in Spain dating back to 1899 that recently reopened to the public. The Tibidabo is topped up with the Temple of the Sacred Heartbuild in 1902, a church that can be seen from many places throughout the city. It is a monumental building designed in neo-Gothic style by Enric Sagnier, and is crowned by a bronze statue of the Sacred Heart. The construction of the temple was completed in 1961.

CASA BATLLÓ When Antoni Gaudí was asked in 1905, what he hoped to achieve with his work on the Casa Batlló, he replied 'a vision of paradise'. In his own way, he did manage to meet his goal. The house is a brilliant example of Catalonian modernism, but when it was constructed, many considered it to be a 'horrible building'. Nowadays, it is seen as one of Gaudí's great, universal treasures and a celebration of modernism, and it still conserves that daring and innovative touch that marked it in the past. PASSEIG DE GRÀCIA 43, EIXAMPLE, TEL: +34 93 216 03 06

PARC GÜELL Güell Park was laid out from 1900 to 1914. The most popular attractions are the snake like ceramic seats with their beautiful broken tile mosaics, the colourful dragon fountain and the two Hansel and Gretel style pavillons at the front gate. Upon entering the park, one of the most unique spaces is the so-called Hall of a Hundred Columns. This is a space with 84 Dorian columns that twist their way up from the ground to the ceiling. The columns hold up the enormous square above, characterised by sinuous lines that is like a gigantic balcony overlooking the city. From here, you can enjoy some of the most spectacular views of Barcelona. The park is also home to the Casa Museu Gaudí, where personal items belonging to the ingenious architect are conserved and exhibited. OLOT 7, GRÀCIA

CASA MILÁ - LA PEDRERA Built by Antonio Gaudi between 1906 and 1910, and completed by an assistant two years later La Pedrera (The Quarry) is one of Gaudí's most exemplary pieces. This apartment block features a beautiful stone facade with natural curves and wrought iron balconies. Nowadays, you can visit the building's interior and even climb up to the roof terrace where you get a better idea about the fact that Casa Mila is all the more original for the absolute absence of straight lines. PASSEIG DE GRÀCIA, 92, EIXAMPLE, TEL. +34 93 484 59 00

MACBA The Museum of Contemporary Art (MACBA) is where modern architecture and contemporary art meets the Gothic Quarter. The bright white walls in the middle of the Raval is a contrast well worth seeing. The collections still need to be strenghtened, but the MACBA and nearby Centro Contemporaneo de Cultura have breathed new life into this area in the Gothic quarter. PLAÇA DELS ANGELS, 1, EL RAVAL, TEL. +34 93 412 08 10

PICASSO MUSEUM The Barcelona Picasso Museum clearly shows the ties that unite Pablo Picasso with the city of Barcelona, which is where he studied and completed his academic training. The museum has 3,500 pieces of the most important works of Pablo Picasso's youth and education, in particular the ones he did between 1895 and 1904, the years in which he lived in Barcelona. MONTCADA 15-19, BARRI GÒTIC, TEL.+34 93 319 63 10

PAVILLON MIES V. DER ROHE The Barcelona Pavilion, a work emblematic of the Modern Movement, is a time less landmark in international architecture and still a source of inspiration today. It was designed by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe (1886-1969) as the German national pavillon for the 1929 Barcelona International Exhibition. AVINGUDA DEL MARQUÈS DE COMILLAS, SANTS MONJUIC, TEL. +34 93 423 40 16

SHOPPING

Wed, 14 Jun 2006 14:31:51 GMT

The small boutiques in the beautiful, ancient and topsy-tervy back streets of the Borne and Gothic quarters make for great shopping, especially if you are looking to top up the more casual elements in your wardrobe. If you are looking for designer labels then head for the Passeig de Gracia where you can spend hours weaving your way up and down this huge, glam street. And for fans of the fashionable bargain, then check out Zara, which is extra cheap her thanks to its Spanish roots.

LA COMERCIAL If you need to buy a present for the man in your life, or if you are yourself a man with a taste for the chic and glamorous, then you have to head straight to La Comercial in the hip Borne district. In this small boutique they have everything a true gentleman desires, from comme des garcons wallets in assorted fruity colours, to Etro aftershave, to Didytique candals to Paul Smith cufflinks to Paul and Joe t -shirts and jumpers. C/REC 52, BORNE, TEL. +34 93 319 24 35

FREE A tiny little gem of a skate shop, if you love skating, (or just like looking like one), then you should get down here! The selection of Vans is sick! Plus the usual sharp and slick street brands like DC, Stüssy, Nike and Zoo York are all stocked here, and they sell boards as well. C/REC 16, BORNE, TEL. +34 93 295 50 36

KWATRA Kwatra is high up on the list of the trainer fans of Barcelona. The owner apparently used to work for Nike and still holds all the right contacts, allowing those lusted after limited editions to be found here first. adidas, Converse and Vans are also available, plus clothing from these giant sports brands. CARRER ANTIC DE SANT JOAN 1, TEL. +34 93 268 08 04

MORAMARCO If sunglasses are your fashion drug then this place should be top of your list for a fix - they have the latest collections from YSL, Gucci, Rayban, Dior, Prada and for true addicts, they have the new Tom Ford collection...stampede!!! drobe. C/REC 56, BORNE, TEL. +34 932 68 98 70

M69 This trendy men's store is full of fashionable tshirts, jumpers and jeans. Gas, Paul Smith, Pringle, Replay and Duffer of St George are all here. They have a great selection of hats too, and its no wonder this store is popular with the gay crowd. Great for vogueing in, eh boys? Always nice to see is the owners? gorgeous golden retriever who is usually outside the store sleeping. REC 28, BORNE, TEL +34 93 310 42 36

MERCADO Come here to mingle with other illustrators, artists and art loves - for this is a super cool art book store and gallery, with a modern, punky twist - they also sell paint spattered vans, weird Japanese toys, and lots of other well presented and well wrapped things that you suddenly fiercely desire even though you don't need them. PL. COMERCIAL 03, BORNE, TEL. +34 93 268 86 31

FLORA For all the Carrie Bradshaws in the house, this shop is for you. Oh yes, if you like the 50s feminine prom queen look, then you will be in seventh heaven in Flora. The designs are very retro, but are made by current Spanish designers. Think lots of pink raw silk, full tulle skirts and elegant little jackets. Very Jackie O. C/ LLEDO, 4-6, BARRI GÓTIC, TEL. +34 93 507 42 92

MYSTIC Just over the road from Flora, this shop is the exact opposite and is for streetwear-loving girls and boys. A high class affair for the studiously scruffy fans, Mystic stocks Converse, Vans, Nike, Boxfresh, DC and a number of Spanish brands. C/LLEDO 3, BARRI GÓTIC, TEL. +34 932 95 51 23

PACO RUEDA A super cool little store, they sell nice pieces from casual masters such as Kim Jones, Wood Wood and Henrik Vibskov. If you buy something here it is unlikely many other people will have it. JAUME 1 16, BORNE, TEL. +34 93 310 06 74

BLAU One of the best places in town for stocking up your electronic music collection. They have a mammoth techno collection, plus hard house, trance and drum and bass. There's a mixing table in the window where you can try out tracks and mixes. BONSUCCES 13, BARRI GOTIC, TEL. +34 93 412 19 97

12'MUSIC This is a serious dance fans music store. All we got snootily told when we asked what they sold was 'No house!' Okay then. So minimal techno fans, you know where to go. JTO PRTAL DEL ANGEL, TEL. +34 93 302 48 41, WWW.DOCEMUSIC.COM

AGAINST A drop-dead impressive design store, where you can pick up really hard-to-find pieces from the great European designers from the 20th Century. Not exactly cheap but the pieces are great quality and in very good nick - everything looked very new despite knocking on 40 years or more. NOTARIAT 9, BARRI GÒTIC, TEL. +34 93 301 54 52

SENSUAL LOVE Vibrators, fluffy handcuffs, KY Jelly, flavoured condoms and edile underwear. Ohhhhhh matron! For those who like to get a little kinky in the bedroom, this light-hearted, bright and fun sex shop has the works. RAMBLA CATALUNYA 48, EIXAMPLE

CUSTO BARCELONA This is one of the few designer brands that hails from Barcelona. It is very typically Spanish, with tons of colourful pieces, not all of them necessarily going together well. For most Europeans, a little Custo goes a long way. But still, its good quality pieces, with a very strong signature style. PLACA DE LES OLLES 7, BARRI GÒTIC, TEL. +34 93 268 78 93

LOEWE This brand began in the 40s in Barcelona and has since become one of the leading luxury brands dedicated to leather and ready to wear. This store harks of old world glamour and a very modern elegance - if you are feeling flush then take your credit card and enjoy! PASSEIG DE GRÀCIA 35, EIXAMPLE, TEL. +34 93 216 04 00

XOCOA XOCOA offer chocolate for modern times. This store is not for your grannies, it's for us! Chocolate CDs, chocolate bars with funky wrapping, and the best bags of chocolate buttons! There are 5 stores to choose from in Barcelona alone, and many more throughout Spain. PETRITXOL 11, BARRI GÒTIC, TEL. +34 93 301 11 97

FORMATEGERIA LA SEU Cheese, cheese and more cheese. From the goat or the cow, from the hard to the soft, from the matured to the fresh, they have cheese here for every taste and palette. Prices are very reasonable, you can take home whole cheeses (always a nice luxury) for a mere 6 euro!! C/ GAGUERIA 16, BARRI GÒTIC, TEL. +34 93 41 26 548

LOBBY Hot and happening area EL Born boasts another new venue: Lobby is a two-floor loft-like space with bare brick walls, concrete floors and cool arty elements. This concept store features hip brands like Issey Miyake, NYIndustries, Y's, Häkansson and Sjal. From clothing over parfume to the latest objects d'art Lobby is what Barcelonas fashionistas have been waiting for. RIBERA 5, BORN,TEL. +34 93 319 3855

FORN DE SANT JAUME This is a French style patisserie with a huge selection of cakes, pastries and chocolates. There are many like this throughout Barcelona and its well worth buying some treats to take home, because these are truly old-fashioned homemade sweets! They also sell wine and cava in beautiful tins. Next door is a tapas bar where you can indulge your salty taste buds, if you have overdosed on the sweet. RAMBLA CATALUNYA 50, EIXAMPLE, TEL. +34 93 21 60 229

FRIDAYS PROJECT This spacious girls streetwear store is a great place for 16 - 30 year olds to shop. It has a lot of Miss Sixty, Fornarina, Energie, Diesel, Abercrombie and Converse Basically if your ass looks great in a pair of jeans then come here to dress it up, you will be spoiled for choice. PASSEIG DE GRÀCIA 91, EIXAMPLE, TEL. +34 93 215 62 40

VINÇON Vinçon sells contemporary design products for the home. There is also an exhibition hall La Sala Vinçon, which is committed to graphic and industrial design works, while the TincÇon shop, has a collection of beds and wardrobes and the Projects section specialises in domestic kitchen and bathroom installations. Opened on the Passeig de Gracia in 1941 the Vincon was soon established as one of the most emblematic shops in Barcelona. Check out the Vincons shop displays which are always changing, and are truly works of art in their own right. PASSEIG DE GRÀCIA 96 , EIXAMPLE, TEL. 93 215 60 50

BARS

Wed, 14 Jun 2006 14:31:14 GMT

Spanish Coffee is very strong and usually excellent, so it´s well worth making as many café stops as you can while you are here. Like most European cities, hanging out in cafes whether for business or pleasure has become an important part of daily life in Barcelona, hence there are tons to choose from!

BLISS A good way to start the day, Bliss is friendly, unpretentious and relaxed. They have a great pile of magazines to sift through, and offer yummy sandwiches; the brie, rocket and apple is particularly good. They also have a great selection of juice smoothies! PLACA SANT JUST 4, BARRI GÒTIC, TEL. +34 93 26 81 022

OLIVIA CAFÉ If you are tired from an expanded shopping trip this small cafe close to the Ramblas will offer you an uplifting coffee and some space to relax and look at your goodies. PINTOR FORTUNY 22, EL RAVAL ,TEL. +34 93 318 63 80

VENUS A small and cosy café which is popular with the arty crowd. There are always new drawings and illustrations going up on the walls, and they serve great coffees! Venus is nestled on the small shopping streets in the Gothic, so it's a great place to rest yourself, not to mention your credit card. C/AVINYO 25, BARRI GÒTIC, TEL. +34 93 30 11 585

SANDWICH & FRIENDS At a quiet street corner in the hip Born district you find this Café that immediately catches your eye with its huge mural by local but internationally famous illustrator Jordi Labanda. His portrayal of a social gathering of bright young things reflects the crowd itself who come here to hang out and to chew on one out of 50 different sandwiches. PASSEIG DEL BORN 27, BORNE, TEL. +34 93 310 07 86, RAMBLA CATALUNYA 5, EIXAMPLE, TEL. +34 93 342 73 76

DRY MARTINI This classical cocktail bar with its wooden carved interior features some of the best cocktails in town served by uniformed waiters to a sophisticated crowd. C/ ARIBAU 162-166, EIXAMPLE, TEL. +34 93 217 50 72

CAFE DE L´OPERA This is one of the few old-style cafes in the city that has managed to resist the devastation of modernization. The name refers to the Liceu Opera House, located directly opposite across Les Ramblas and once upon a time patrons would have gathered here for a pre-performance aperitif. Although it has been renovated over the years the interior still contains Belle Epoque details. LES RAMBLAS 74, BARRI GÒTIC, TEL. +34 93 302 41 80

MUEBLES CIUDAD They serve tapas here in the day, but really Muebles stands out for being a superb cocktail bar. Bellinis, Caprinhas, Cosmopolitans and Whiskey Sours are all made to perfection. With it's hip and sleek design, it's a good place to start your evening. C/CIUDAD 5, BARRI GÒTIC, TEL. +34 93 31 75 989

BUDDHA BAR Buddha Bar is very pretentious, but fun all the same. There is a restaurant dining room at the back, where a huge bouncer standing in front of a velvet rope ensures that no one other than diners are allowed in. (To book a table here costs a lot of money.) The club is popular with models, business men and tv presenters - all dolled up to the nines. The music is actually very good; a non stop mix of pop and hip hop hits. Thursdays and Sundays are their best and most packed nights. C/PAU CLARIS 92, EIXAMPLE, TEL. +34 93 318 42 52

MENAGE A TROIS Very nice in the summer because they have a spacious outside seating area. Inside there is a long bar, good for propping up to get a quick espresso, or if you want to make more of it, use the cosy back room which is always busy and full of friends and couples having a good old natter over their reasonably-priced coffee and snacks. The crowd are mostly young students. C/ DE'EN BOT 4, BARRI GÒTIC, TEL. +34 93 30 15 542

CHIRINGUITOS There are at least a dozen bars - known as Chiringuitos - that line the promenade along the beautiful coast line, and they are a vital part of Barcelona's beach life and atmosphere. You can rent deck-chairs and lounge around drinking Sangria and nibbling at shellfish all day long if you want to - and at nights, many of the bars stay open, playing music and selling drinks into the early hours - perfect for warm summer nights when you want to be a beach worshipper for as long as possible!

LAIE LIBRERIA CAFE Laie Libreria Café is a café and restaurant above an excellent bookshop, with a glass-fronted gallery set back from the street on the first floor and a small garden at the back. The bookshop includes a small but sophisticated English selection, the café has newspapers and magazines for its clients, and the restaurant at the back serves an excellent, moderately priced set lunch on clean white tablecloths. PAU CLARIS 85, EIXAMPLE, TEL. +34 93 3027 310

SAL CAFE In this cafe/bar/restaurant a 60-metre glass front enssures you enjoy the beach even on one of those few days in Barcelona when the weather is not so hot. The sleek industrial design and fun atmosphere puts its streaks ahead of most beach places. PASEIG DE LA BARCELONETA 60, BARCELONETA, TEL. +34 93 224 07 07

SUAU BAR At the end of the lovely Passeig del Born, one of the nicest streets in the area that is borded with huges trees, Suau has a great selection of wine, served in an eclectic and chilled atmosphere. Not to be missed are Wednesday nights where you can get a glimpse of your future with tarot readings for 20 ' PASSEIG DEL BORN, 30, 08002 BARCELONA

FRAGILE Just aside the great MACBA, Fragile offers a great fusion menu, with a variety of dishes on offer - many with an oriental twist. They have exhibitions of young unknown artists adorning the walls, and the lovely staff are very attentive. Fragile is Ideal for a pause after the visit to the museum or to watch the pro skateboarders of the city showing off in the nearby park. CALLE DE FERNANDINA, RAVAL

RESTAURANTS

Wed, 14 Jun 2006 14:30:31 GMT

There is a mind-boggling amount of great tapas bars and restaurants in Barcelona, which means breakfast, lunch and dinner can all be celebrated in style! The hams and cheeses you get in good tapas restaurants are to die for, and actually it’s really worth buying some in Barcelona to take home. Asian restaurants are becoming increasingly popular, with sushi especially hip now. In the spring and summer seasons make sure you make a reservation for a restaurant table, but in winter you can normally just turn up and get seated.

VILDSVIN Urban Barcelona meets old Czechoslovakia in this chic, fusion & dash inspired cerveceria situated near the Generalitat, where modern furnishings and original 19th century features are stylishly combined to a lofty effect. The menu is an intriguing mix of Eastern European dishes, such as Hungarian goulash and traditional Spanish platos and tapas. A wide range of beers and wines are also available. When in season (from October to February), special oyster tasting menus: 5.50 euros for two oysters and a glass of cava. C/FERRÁN, 38, BARRI GÒTIC, TEL. +34 93 317 94 07

CUINES SANTA CATERINA This sleek eatery inside the Santa Caterina market features long wooden tables with food filled shelves and an open slate decked kitchen. An LCD screen flashes the specials of the day. The menu is somewhat of a fusion confusion offering dishes from sushi to baked goat cheese. Fun place to come for lunch. AVENIDAFRANCESC CAMBÓ 16, TEL. +34 93 268 99 18

HOFMANN This restaurant in the Borne is one of the most famous in Barcelona, partly because of its outstanding cuisine, partly because of its close alliance with a well-known school that trains employees for the gastronomic world. The décor is classic, slightly conservative but cosy. Pictures of celebs on the wall like Cindy and Arnold must be ignored for the food is really an unforgettable matter. C/L´ARGENTERIA 74-78, BORNE, TEL. +34 93 319 58 89

BALTHAZAR Still a hot spot for the city's beautiful, out to see and be seen. The décor with dark brown walls and black pillars is chic and timeless and tables are close enough to ensure group interaction. Balthazar is all about the place but unfortunately not about the food. C/ ROSSELLÓ 189, EIXAMPLE, TEL. +34 93 217 8250

SALERO Stylishly informal Salerno presents itself with a cool warehouse aesthetic and some feminine touches to an arty crowd, This place is one of El Born's most fashionable locales. Created by photographer Elena de la Madrid and her partners, the bar also has a limited choice of carefully prepared and imaginative food. C/REC 60, BORNE, TEL. +34 93 319 80 22

EL JAPONÉS Decorated by Isabel López and Sandra Tarruella the same design team responsible for the Hotel Omm, El Japonés is a zen like affair with clean slate walls, and long wooden
tables. An open kitchen allows you to watch the Sushi masters doing their magic. The eclectic crowd of nippon food fanatics seems very happy to indulge into specials like the kushiyaki and tempura. PASSATGE DE LA CONCEPCIÓ 2, EIXAMPLE , TEL. +34 93 487 25 92

ORIGEN 99,9% This informal yet stylish little restaurant serves original but slightly modernised Catalan dishes. The chef is constantly digging up old, lost recipes to bring them back to life. A small market at the entrance offers the regions delicatessen. C/VIDRIERÍA, 6-8, BORNE, TEL. +34 93 3107531

CAL PEP One of the best seafood experiences in town! Have your seafood right at the bar where it's prepared. It's worthwhile the long waiting time or try to avoid it by coming after the big tourist crowd who have unfortunately discovered the place. PLACA DE LAS OLLES 8, BARCELONETA, TEL. +34 93 310 7961

GALERÍA GASTRONÓMICA This venue features a holistic gastronomic experience on three floors combining Mediterranean cuisine and an exhibition of art. The style is definitely modern Italian, a bit like Roberto Cavalli hits glass and steel. In the basement you'll find a lounge area where a DJ spins the tunes on the weekend PASSATGE DE LA CONCEPCIÓ 7, EIXAMPLE, TEL. +34 93 27 23 880

CINCSENTITS Calling a restaurant »Five senses« calls for quite a challenge. Though when the food arrives in this small unstuffy place the senses do go wild. There are so many scent, flavour and colour combinations that you are tempted to swap plates with people on your table halfway through the meal. The crisp duck breast accentuated with a sauce of reduced Priorat wine is truly to dye for. C/ARIBAU, 58, EIXAMPLE, TEL. +34 93 323 94 90

FOODBALL The Camper's latest venture is a cafe and take-away located near the MACBA museum, and its clientele reflect the neighbourhood's neo-hippie vibe. Marti Guixé, the Catalan food designer created the menu, which is whole grain rice balls stuffed with either organic mushrooms, chickpeas, tofu and alga, or chicken. The food is presented in, yes, balls. Besides the 'foodballs' the only other produce available is fresh and dried fruit, juices and purified water. If all this sounds just a bit too contrived don't be put off; healthy fast food is scarcer than hen's teeth in Barcelona. C/ELISABETS 9, RAVAL, TEL. + 34 93 270 13 63

WOKCLUB With a big painting of what could be young Mao and dark walls and a menu of sushi and wokfood the Wokcafe is an informal but cool looking and fits perfectly into the hip Born area. C/REC, 60, BORNE, TEL. +34 93 319 8022

EL TRAGALUZ Tragaluz means skylight, literally, »light-swallower« -- and this is good choice if you're still on a design high from Gaudí's Pedrera. The sliding roof opens to the stars in good weather, while the chairs, lamps, and fittings by Javier Mariscal (creator of 1992 Olympic mascot Cobi) reflect Barcelona's passion for whimsy and playful design. The Mediterranean cuisine is light and innovative. PASSATGE DE LA CONCEPCIÓ 5, EIXAMPLE, TEL.+34 93 487 06 21

PANYVINO This cosy but cosmopolitan little place offers more than just bread and vine. Instead you get to choose from an extensive Argentinian Menue featuring homemade pasta and Argentinian meat specialties. CONSOLAT DEL MAR 15, BORNE, TEL. +34 93 268 77 76

TALLER DE TAPAS Amongst a pleasant decor of exposed brick and beams (or the outside terrace) guests can order from a trilingual menu which makes the whole process of getting exactly what you want a lot easier. The regular menus consists of dozens of tapas delights from all over Spain; marinated anchovies from the Costa Brava, Palamós prawns with scrambled eggs, grilled duck foie, sizzling chorizo cooked in cider: no need to say no more! C/L'ARGENTERIA 51, BORNE, TEL. +34 93 268 85 59

CIUDAD CONDAL This is a Barcelona institution and a lasting favourite with both visitors and locals alike. Centrally located near the Passeig de Garcia Ciudad Condal is buzzing especially around lunchtime. The interior is pleasant and acts as a perfect backdrop for the mouth watering displayed tapas at the bar. For us some of the best tapas in town. RAMBLA CATALUNYA, 18, EIXAMPLE, TEL. +34 93 318 19 97

CLUBS

Wed, 14 Jun 2006 14:29:58 GMT

The choice of clubs here ist very impressive, with a constant stream of DJs from all over the world flying in to play. Wheter it´s elegant clubs like 13 or Sutton where the crowd are very glamorous, or ravey clubs like Loft or Moog where the crowd are are young, drunk and dancing hard, there is something for everyone´s clubbing tastes. The people like to party long into the night so don´t expect to go home early.

RAZZMATAZZ A sprawling, huge venue, they really pack 'em in here. There are 3 different clubs in this venue, including the excellent Loft, which has become pretty famous over the years. There are numerous floors and tons of different rooms, bars and dancefloors. You can have the unique experience of hearing techno in one room, rock in the next and Brit pop in the one after. Big name DJs are usually on the bill every weekend. ALMOGAVERS 12/PAMPLONA 88, TEL. +34 93 272 09 10

13 It's possible to come to 13 every night of the week and find something good on. Attracting a cosmopolitan and hip young crowd, this club is on the beautiful Plaça Real and makes a great place to go after dinner. They also have a restaurant inhouse, so you can eat and then dance all under one roof. Thursday nights here are a must. PLAÇA REAL 13, BARRI GÒTIC, TEL. +34 93 317 23 52

SUTTON This club is for Barcelona's jetset crowd. The girls all look like Shakira or Britney and the guys are muscle bound hunks, or at least try to be. They love to come here after partying at Buddha Bar. Sutton is a huge white and pink space with tons of loungey seating - the music is very much American in style, with a lot of hip hop and pop. C/TUSET 13, EIXAMPLE, TEL +34 932 090 352

CLUB NITSA / SALA APOLO For techno and electronic house there is no better place than Club Nitsa in the old Apollo theatre. The club is huge, with a large main floor and small rooms adjacent to it. The crowds are young and up for it, and the parties go on till 6am. The local area outside the club is a little bit dodgy, so watch your pokkets when you leave. NOU DE LA RAMBLA 113, RAVAL

FONFONE Sundays are great here, with DJs like Carlos Diez Diez at the decks. The music is varied from boogie to electro-disco to funk, and its always full on the weekends. C/ESCUDELLERS 24, BARRI GOTIC, TEL. + 34 93 317 14 24

LA PALOMA Located just inside the Raval off Ronda de San Antoni, La Paloma is the last survivor of the ballrooms for which the Barrio Chino was once famous. Complete with red velvet benches, gilded galleries and baroque painted ceilings over a generous dance floor, it's frequented by all age groups and types who dance do pumping electronic music all night long. Open Thu-Sun. CALLE TIGRE 27, 08001, TEL. +34 93 3016 897

MOOG A fiercely cool techno laboratory, Moog is a small club that has played host to some of the best-known techno and house DJs in the world. DJ Hell has had some of his most famous parties here. A must if you are an electronic music fan. CARRER ARC DEL TEATRE 3, TEL. +34 93 3014 991

OTTO ZUTZ A New York-style club on three floors with eight bars and a VIP area, Otto Zutz is a long established survivor of Barcelona's dance scene. It still attracts clubbers from all over the city to village-like barrio Gràcia. The club gets going after midnight and winds down from 5am. Open Tue-Sat. LINCOLN 15, EIXAMPLE, TEL. + 34 93 2380 722

HOTELS

Wed, 14 Jun 2006 14:28:11 GMT

It´s easy to get a good quality hotel in Barcelona without spending a fortune. Many have swimming pools on their rooftops, which make those hot summer days much easier to enjoy. Of course if you do want to splash out with your money a little bit more then there are some really stunning 5 star hotels here, which have great extras such as spas, stunning roof top restaurants and pools plus overall exceptional customer service.

CASA CAMPER When Camper laid a hand on a former 19th-century convent in Barcelona's burgeoning El Raval district the result was a fusion of rural down to earthness with innovative touches- just like their famous shoes. »Two for the price of one« claims the room concept meaning you a get an not exactly cheap bedroom with an extra lounge area for free. High-tech features (plasma TVs, DVDs, CD players and WIFI) mix well with natural beauty products and quirky design touches like a vertical garden. We especially like the fact that breakfast as well as a 24 hour free snack bar is included in the room price. C/ELISABETS 11, RAVAL, TEL. +34 93 342 62 80, RATES: 187- 262 €

THE 5ROOMS If you are looking for somewhere special to rest your head on than look no further. The 5rooms has, you might have guessed it, five rooms and it's all about making the guests feel like friends. The rooms are individually decorated in a cool, comtemporary, comfortable scheme with of course all modern amnenities. Each one also features the work of different artists which are also available for purchase. This small oasis of a hotel, located ideally next to the Passeig de Garcia is surely one of our favourites. THE 5ROOMS, PAU CLARIS 72, EIXAMPLE, TEL. +34 93 342 78 80

SILKEN DIAGONAL The hotel is set near the Plaza de Las Glorias, at the foot of the emblematic Agbar Tower, the newest skyscraper designed by Jean Nouvel. Entering the lobby you'll find a stylish affair from top to bottom. The sleek interior of the rooms with dark wood and neutral tones follows the newest design trends. If you enjoy taking a shower in privacy the Silkens bathrooms with their glass dividing walls are not for you. Also try to pick up on those Spanish lessons again since the hotels staff makes flowing communication rather difficult. AVENIDA DIAGONAL 205, EIXAMPLE, TEL. +34 93 489 53 00

THE CLARIS The Hotel Claris was built in 1992 keeping the façade of the former Palacio Vedruna. The interior however reveals nothing of neo-classical heritage but is strictly modern. The Lobby with its steel, glass, concrete and glass design contains over 400 sculptures. Also the rooms are all about 21st-century facilities with the poise and the grandeur of an older establishment: 100 antique kilims, 17th and 18th century English and French furniture antique artworks and chesterfield sofas are combined to a decor that is not exactly our favourite. However for skinny-dipping in the pool or a sundowner drink there is no better place in Barcelona than the Claris terrace boasting a wonderful view over the rooftops of the city. C/PAU CLARIS 150, EIXAMPLE, TEL. +34 93 487 62 62, RATES: 261-1043 €

HOTEL OMM Barcelona's quest for hipness is still the Omm. This Grupo Tragaluez owned venue, a 59-room enclave beneath a unique façade, was designed by architect Juli Capella. Long dark hallways flanked with lines of light lead to bedrooms where modern simplicity reigns with light wood contrasting earthy colours. The Omm features an outdoor pool, the haute cuisine restaurant »Moo« (Joan, Josep and Jordi Roca, whose culinary expertise has earned them two Michelin stars, expand on their vision of Catalan cuisine) and »Omm Sessions« the hotel's own club, the place to play after dark. C/ROSELLÓN 265, EIXAMPLE, TEL. +34 93 444 54 000RATES: 290-500 €

THE HOTEL ARTS DJ's and those in the know are flocking to the Ritz Carlton retreat near the Port Olimpic Marina only a stroll away from the Icària and Barceloneta beaches. The rooms, though not super original, are contemporary and luxurious and enjoy stunning views over the city and sea. The superb Spa by »Six Senses« on the 43rd floor is great for relaxing and unwinding giving you plenty of time to think about the fact that you really made it into the best hotel in town. C/ DE LA MARINA 19-21, BARCELONETA, TEL. +34 93 221 1000

HOTEL PULITZER This charming boutique hotel has an almost colonial feel about it. The décor is elegant with a colour scheme of black and white with touches of ethno making for a relaxed atmosphere. A library fully equipped to the latest specifications and the free use of nearby Holmes Place Leisure Club are bonuses. The rooftop terrace is a fab spot for a sundowner and makes up in squishy loungers, scented candles and tropical plants what it lacks in a view. BERGARA 8, EL RAVAL, TEL. +34 93 481 67 67

HOTEL JAZZ Opened in 2004 the Hotel Jazz is ideally situated at the Triángulo de Oro in strolling distance to the Plaça Catalunya, Paseo de Gracia and les Rambles. The bedrooms are stylish with cool, natural materials combined with toned down greys and splashes of bold colours. The latest technology like flat-screen TVs and wireless, free internet keeps technophiles happy. The Jazz is the perfect set-up for work and play: at the end of the day it' all about chilling by the pool. C/PELAI 3, EIXAMPLE, TEL. +34 93 552 96 96

BANYS ORIENTALS This small gem of a boutique hotel fills the gap between luxurious and moderate and is definitely the best value for your money option in the city. Located in the heart of the Quartier de la Ribeira the Bany's offers 43 elegantly decorated rooms in a soothing colour scheme that offer you free Internet access (ADSL). Since the hotel has been included in the list »10 most recommended Hotels in the Mediterranean« reservations well ahead are all but necessary. C/ARGENTARIA 37, BORN, TEL. +34 93 268 84 60, RATES: 80-120 €

BARCELONA

Wed, 14 Jun 2006 14:27:43 GMT

If there is only one city you visit this summer, make sure it’s Barcelona. It’s beautiful, exciting and the weather is gorgeous! Take our guide to this must-see city of the summer with you!

RESTAURANTS

Thu, 23 Mar 2006 11:22:33 GMT

In recent years London has become the world’s capital of dining, taking over New York in the prestige stakes. It’s a reputation the city deserves because the choice of food and the quality of it is consistently high – from the Indian curries and Chinese delicacies to classic English meat dishes - the celebrity chefs that are all cooking up a storm will keep the critics here on their toes for a long while yet.

RULES Rules is famed for being the oldest restaurant in London; it has been here, feeding the great and the good, since 1798. Inside the restaurant is a sight to behold, with every inch of wall covered in framed pictures, every nook and cranny is used to house some sort of statue. The whole place reeks of Victorian England at the height of its British Empire arrogance. And yet somehow Rules doesn't get up your nose, it's actually a great experience, especially as the food is so excellent. The cuisine is classic English, with game being their speciality (they catch the animals from their own estate in the Pennines, if you don't mind.) 35 MAIDEN LANE, WC2E 7LB, TEL +44 020 7836 5314

LE COQ D'ARGENT Obviously here you get the French type of cuisine, which you can enjoy in one of Sir Terence Conran's best rooftop locations. If you're in for some more privacy then you might ask for a seat at the separate bar or the restaurant terrace. But wherever you might sit down, you will have some delicious food while watching an impressive skyline in calm surroundings. NO.1
POULTRY, EC2R 8EJ, TEL +44 020 7395 5000

THE IVY When celebrities in London decide to go out for dinner, one restaurant always at the top of their list is The Ivy. Imagine a school with a very posh sixth-form common-room, which as a mere fifth-former you are not normally allowed into. That's what it feels like to dine here - so obviously, it's hugely fun. Try not to keep looking round to see if that really is Madonna behind you. It probably is. The food is excellent, of course, a mixture of modern European with traditional English dishes (rump steak, sticky toffee pudding etc.) being cooked to perfection. Needless to say, you have to book at least two or three weeks in advance to get
a table here. 1 WEST STREET, COVENT GARDEN, WC2H 9NQ, TEL +44 20 7836 4751

OXO TOWER RESTAURANT If you want a truly unforgettable dining experience, then book a table here for sunset; the views across London and The Thames are just gorgeous. Plus watching the city and the sky as it creeps towards night as you eat is very satisfying. The restaurant is owned by Harvey Nichols, and the food and service is as you would expect from HN: exceptional. Expect fantastic starters of fois gras, tender, flavour-filled fillet steaks and to die for chocolate mousse. If you have a full 3-course meal, along with wine and after-dinner drinks, you should beware a meal for two can approach the £400 mark. Staggering as that may be, it's a delightful experience that is worth the price tags. BARGE HOUSE STREET, SE1 9PH, TEL +44 20 7803 3888

HAKKASAN Hakkasan seems to be never out of fashion, and so is really packed most of the time. It serves a menu that covers the Mediterranean, South-East Asia and Europe. Offering main courses between £11.50 and £68, it's not the cheapest around, but one of the most innovative and friendly though. Book in advance. 8 HANWAY PLACE, W1T 1HD, TEL +44 020 7907 1888

MON PLAISIR This is apparently the oldest French restaurant in London, and when you walk in you immediately get hit with its strong sense of self - helped along nicely by the charming French waiters in formal dress. Try and get a seat downstairs in the cosy front dining room or the back room done out like a rive gauche café, the upstairs doesn't have as much atmosphere. Go for the onion soup, it's always a winner, with French bread, of course. And for desert, ask to see their selection of French cheeses, which a waiter will wheel out for you to choose from - from the truly pongy to the mild and creamy, they have everything.19-21 MONMOUTH STREET, WC2H 9DD, TEL +44 020 7836 7243

THE ADMIRALTY The Admiralty is located in a corner of the Somerset House with south-facing windows that offer a great warm atmosphere. The interior is as playful and creatively arranged as the dishes themselves. Altogether it's so comfortable that you can get over the slightly high prices. SOMERSET HOUSE, STRAND, WC2R 1LA, TEL +44 020 7845 4646

LES TROIS GARCONS Les Trois Garcons is a place that you would go to for a big night out. The interior is very dream-like, and reminiscent of Alice in Wonderland, (with stuffed animals on the walls and dangling shoes and strings of pearls hanging from the ceiling), but it creates a warm atmosphere, which matches the staff's attitude. The French dishes are truly extraordinary just like the upper end of the wine list. 1 CLUB ROW, E1 6JX, TEL +44 020 7613 1924

SKETCH When Sketch opened a few years ago it was the coolest place in London. And also the most expensive place you could eat dinner. The years have rolled by and while Sketch is still cool, it has inevitably lost some of its sheen as is the fate of the over-hyped. Sketch contains two venues one of which is the upper class Lecture Room Restaurant while the other is a hip clubby place called the Gallery. This is reflected in the price ranges as well as in the quality of the dishes. The Lecture Room was designed by Gabhan O'Keefe in bright colours whereas the Gallery is darker - at night time the tables are cleared away and this becomes a nightclub. Going to the loo in their famous egg shaped pods is quite an experience. 9 CUDUIT STREET, W1S 2XZ, TEL +44 0870 777 4488

THE CINNAMON CLUB The Cinnamon Club is a very stylish modern Indian restaurant located in the Old Westminster Library from the 19th century. The whole place is spacious and seriously sleek - plus there are still books everywhere, so you can feel very scholarly while you eat! While main courses range from £11 to £26, you can also have a set dinner for £95 (including wine), which is not a bad price. Truly worth a visit! THE OLD WESTMINSTER LIBRARY, GREAT SMITH STREET, SW1P 3BU, TEL +44 020 7222 2555

CARLUCCIO'S CAFE The Italian Carluccio's chain is going from strength to strength, having recently opened their 15th London branch. It is rare you will find ever find a Carluccio's empty, they always seem to be heaving, so be prepared for a bustling atmosphere. Every place has the same concept, with a deli at the front offering great fresh Italian produce, and dining at the back - all the branches are airy, bright and often have some sort of outdoors space for al fresco dining when the warmer weather arrives. They do great breakfasts with unbeatable scrambled eggs and prosciutto ham, and dinner classics such as lasagne and the mushroom risotto are always great. 8 MARKET PLACE, W1W 8AG, TEL +44 020 7636 2228

AMAYA A high-end Indian restaurant for which you should consider booking a table instead of just showing up. Main courses are between £8.50 and £25, which reflects it's more upmarket status. If you're only heading for something to fill your belly with, try the cheaper Masala Zone Restaurants that have the same owners and director. HALKIN ARCADE, SW1X 8JT, TEL +44 020 7823 1166

FIFTEEN Fifteen is home to celebrity chef extraordinaire Jamie Oliver's cooking academy. Here in these kitchens, 30 is advantaged youngsters every year have the chance to start a career in the restaurant business. The service is not very formal as you can imagine and the modern European food not always perfect. But hey: they are still learning! However, the dishes are not expensive and more than often perfectly satisfying, occasionally excellent. 15 WESTLAND PLACE, N1 7LP, TEL +44 0871 330 1515

ZUMA Zuma seems to be the hippest place to get stuffed with top-of-the-range Japanese food. As it's just round the corner form Harrods, you get an awful lot of ladies who lunch here, and in the evening, a sprinkling of celebrities. The interior is terrific, styled very openly - you can watch the chefs cooking - and in a mixture of modern and traditional Japanese architecture. You may enjoy a private dinner with as many as 13 of your friends here. Just be warned - the price tag for your food may mean you don't go back to Harrods for awhile. 5 RAPHAEL STREET, LONDON, SW7 1DL TEL +44 020 7584 1010

NOBU Serving innovative food in a striking ambience is probably what makes the Nobu the most famous Japanese restaurant in town. You can choose from main courses between £5 and £27.50 or have a set dinner for as much as £70-£90. Nobu is still popular with a celebrity clientele, although its glory days are probably behind this particular location. If you want to try out something from the same makers try the newly opened Ubon (that's Nobu backwards) in Canary Wharf. METROPOLITAN HOTEL, 19 OLD PARK LANE, W1K 1LB, TEL +44 020 7447 4747